LoCoHistory

The term “history” in locohistory can be defined in a number of ways. At its most basic, it is something that occurred in the past. For inclusion on the National Register of Historic Places it should be at least fifty years old. The study of “history” includes past peoples, events, structures, and landscapes. This week’s post considers a slightly more recent event that occurred in 1976: the creation of the pedestrian mall on East Main Street. The decision to prohibit cars from traveling (and parking) on a major thoroughfare was controversial. To demonstrate the utility of such a move, a smaller section (from the Belmont Bridge to West Second Street) was temporarily closed on April 13, 1971 and set up as a pedestrian shopping center. Still, the proposed mall project was variously derided as “Cole’s Hole” (the city manager at that time was Cole Hendrix), “Council’s Folly” and “Little Watergate.” Other sites have comprehensive coverage of the long road that was traveled before the completion of the mall and its even more gradual success as a social and shopping mecca. One excellent article is by John Yellig, available here.

In this post my mission is different: to encourage you to look down at the architecturally designed roadway and its bricks. The architect is Lawrence Halprin who specifically designed a brick walkway that would not detract from the surrounding historic, brick structures. Rather, he selected an unusual shape, 4” by 12” pavers, so that they would look artistic, not “institutional.” Halprin is a well known architect and is known for creating “landscapes available to all segments of society and generated on the basis of final user needs.” His 1976 artistic design has recently come under discussion as the City pursues options for renovating the downtown mall.

To listen to a podcast of public comment on the plan for the new bricks, visit the Charlottesville Tomorrow Website. There has been a lot of public input into the use of 7.5 million dollars to refurbish the bricks and if the money is to be spent, how to produce an aesthetically pleasing result on time and on budget.

But here at locohistory we wanted to take a different approach and see just how well you know your downtown mall. For the following exercise it helps to enlist kids as they are closer to the ground and more likely to be successful in completing the following challenge. Or you can add this treasure hunt to your weekend pub crawl and see who finishes first. Directions for the First (and quite possibly final seeing as they may be removing these bricks in 2009) Annual Downtown Mall Brick Challenge: Begin at the Omni, face east (towards the Pavilion). See how many of the brick “hot spots” you can find (numbered throughout this post). Don’t forget to look up and watch out for pedestrians and the cars at the two drive through crossings. For bonus points, complete this challenge from memory and see if you recognize any of these spots. Good Luck!

Freemasonry emerged from the craft guilds of stone masons during the Middle Ages. This “secret society” became very popular in Colonial America and many of the founding fathers belonged to Masonic Societies, including George Washington, Benjamin Franklin, and John Paul Jones (no, not the same eponymous individual who named the JPJ Arena here in C-ville; that John P. was a 1948 graduate of UVA Law). The Masonic Service Association website defines the organization as “a worldwide fraternity emphasizing personal study, self-improvement, and social betterment via individual involvement and philanthropy.” Originally, these organizations were limited to men. But in the 19th Century several orders were created for women: The Order of the Eastern Star (1855), the Order of the Amaranth (1873), and the White Shrine of Jerusalem (1894). Often an individual’s membership in these groups was symbolized on their gravestone. The three symbols commonly used in these motifs include a carpenter’s t-square (for measuring accurate right angles), a compass (for drawing circles, not for navigating), and the letter “G” which is variously interpreted as “God,” “Geometry,” or “Grand Architect of the Universe” (also a reference to a higher power). The second photo illustrates Colonial Era tools used by builders and carpenters.

Here in Charlottesville we have several Lodges and Chapters of the Masonic Temple. If we turn back to a C-ville City Directory from 1910-11 we see four groups: Widow’s Son Lodge, No 60 which meets “Friday on or before the full moon at 7:30 pm,” the Charlottesville Lodge, No. 55 (also meeting before the full moon), the Keystone Royal Arch Chapter, No. 58 (which livened things up a bit and met the Friday after the full moon), and the Charlottesville Commandry, No. 3 (which gave up on the celestial planning and settled for the “second Tuesday in each month.” The photo depicts one of the lodges today, located along the downtown mall. Stop by and study the symbolism in the various signs. Above the door is the classic triad. To the left of the door is a 3-D drawing that references the pyramids of Egypt (another important symbol for the group and the source of the “all-seeing” eye above the pyramid on the dollar bill). The detailed symbol on the glass door will make it easier to identify the symbolism of the T-square and compass.

For the past two years a committee has been working on restoring and researching the remarkable collection of 150 works of art painted by Frances Brand (1901-1990), a notable Charlottesville folk artist. She was also known for her work as a civil rights activist and as a world traveler. In the 1950s after serving as a major in the US Army, she retired and began studying painting in Mexico City. The painting shown at the right is a self-portrait. Eventually she chose a theme for her works, people who were pioneers in a given field or endeavor. She defined these “firsts” in broad terms, from the first female flag person on a Virginian road crew to the first female African-American police officer in town. Other “firsts” were more obscure, such as the first Charlottesville mother to use the Lamaze method. Her work was exhibited many times, most recently at the Albemarle Charlottesville Historical Society (click here for an on-line version of the exhibit).

Recently her grand-daughter, Cynthia Brand, initiated a discussion with the Department of Parks & Recreation Therapeutic Arts program to donate the paintings so that they could be displayed and inspire people of all ages. Several members of the community have joined forces to research and assess the condition of the collection so that it can be preserved for future exhibits. This effort includes private individuals, Cindy Brand, the Albemarle Charlottesville Historical Society, the City of Charlottesville, the Perry Foundation, and the Charlottesville Area Community Foundation (the last four groups generously donated funds to this project). Efforts are on-going to write the biographies of the people depicted in the paintings.

The committee needs YOUR help in identifying some of the paintings. While most were labeled with the name of the subject, the selections illustrated here have not been identified. If you have any idea who might be depicted please post a comment below. You will need to study the icons in the paintings to read the storyline that Mrs Brand intended. For example, the painting below is, most likely, the first Chinese (-American ?) accepted to UVA or perhaps the first Asian faculty member. The book he’s holding may also be related to his “first” accomplishment. If anyone can read the inscription that would be a helpful start. The portrait above him might be the first inter-racial couple in Charlottesville and the one above that the first African-American postal carrier in the city. These are just guesses, but hopefully the images will jog someone’s memory.

On some downtown structures history is writ large on the sides of old, brick buildings. The images below represent a small sample of the 19th and early 20th century advertising technique of painting buildings. See how many old store names you can locate on and around the mall this summer. A hint: the photos illustrated here were taken near East Water Street and 4th Street SE. Ironically, the brand-new building in the back of the “Chas King Grocers” building is “the Holsinger,” named after a famous, historic photographer.


For more photos of local graffiti visit the Albemarle Charlottesville Historical Society website which contains a photo essay by Glenn Rebholz. He photographed dozens of examples from downtown Charlottesville. His on-line exhibit is titled: Ghost Signs and Vestige Billboards. The accompanying report is on file at the historical society.

What year would a young man have been able to sign up for the above, fictional job posting ? The answer: 1933, working with the Civilian Conservation Corps (originally nicknamed “Roosevelt’s Tree Army”). President Franklin Delano Roosevelt created the C.C.C. in March of 1933, during the Great Depression, as a partial solution to high unemployment. By 1935 over 2,600 C.C.C. camps had been opened across the country. Over half-a-million individuals lived in these camps while they worked on public works’ projects. While widely successful, the camps were closed in 1942 a year after the US entered World War II.

Virginia had dozens of CCC camps. The very first CCC camp was located in the George Washington National Park (in Ft Valley, VA). Several camps were located in Albemarle. You can still see the product of their labor if you know where to look. One example is an old CCC-road that once connected Covesville to North Garden. This beautiful, old road winds along the mountains that parallel route 29. The CCC laborers built culverts and shored up the edges of the road to ensure proper drainage.

If you want to learn more about the contributions of the CCC and its history, stop in at the White Hall Community Center on June 8th, between 2 and 4, for the 75th Anniversay Celebration of the Civilian Conservation Corps. At 2:30 Albemarle County historian and writer, Phil James, will give a lecture on the CCC Camp Albemarle (located in White Hall). The event is hosted by the White Hall Ruritan Club and is free of charge. For more information email philjames[insert the at symbol]firstva.com.

Much of local history lies in front of our eyes, but goes unnoticed. This is not the case with the Taylor Family. The Martha Jefferson Neighborhood Association and Hospital combined to sponsor a marker that commemorates an African American family that has lived in the neighborhood for over 150 years. Quoting from the marker, “The land was originally part of a 25 acre parcel purchased in 1869 by Fairfax Taylor (1816-895). A former slave who bought his freedom and was the first black land owner in this area. Another member of the family, James T.S. Taylor (1840-1918) was active in politics and a delegate to the Virginia Constitutional Convention of 1867. Both were prominent members of the First Baptist Church and the community. As of this date [1993], their descendants live on family land in one of the three original Taylor houses.” The photo below illustrates one of the original Taylor homes. Unfortunately, the street is no longer called “Taylor.” Instead, the marker lies along Lexington avenue, just north of the Maplewood Cemetery.
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Recently cemetery vandalism has been on the increase in our local cemeteries. The worst hit cemetery is the historic African American graveyard adjacent to Oakwood and known as the “Daughters of Zion” or “Society Cemetery.” More recently, vandalism has been increasing in Maplewood Cemetery (near Martha Jefferson Hospital). The perpetrators vary in age from teenagers to adults and from the homeless to school children. Gang-related graffiti has been found, etched on an obelisk.

The recent spike in vandalism has decimated parts of Maplewood Cemetery. In the photo (taken 14 April 08), the red dots indicate stones that have been broken, moved, or destroyed. In some cases the inscriptions are no longer legible and it will be very difficult (and expensive) to repair them. To read more about these recent incidents, please visit the NBC 29 website.

Part of the decline in cemetery landscapes is enabled because the average person never visits a cemetery. This disuse has led to abandoned acres of graves that are rarely visited by family members or the public. It’s unfortunate that our modern sensibilities discourage us from visiting and learning from these open-air museums. To the contrary, in the 19th Century families were encouraged to walk through the recently designed “rural cemeteries” (paradoxically located adjacent to cities). These burial grounds contained walking trails, sculpted shrubbery, and a Victorian style of funerary memorial that emphasized flowery inscriptions and moralistic epitaphs.

Today these monuments are part of a 200-year old landscape at Maplewood Cemetery. A stroll through this historic deathscape illustrates past ideas about death, the family, religion, and gender. Moreover, the epitaphs convey the history of Charlottesville, one individual at a time.

Charlottesville has several historic cemeteries, all of which teach us about the city’s multi-cultural past. The current behavior of a small number of people can by stopped if more people strolled through these graveyards and called the Police if they see something amiss.

A Charlottesville Police Officer has dedicated a portion of her time to working on this issue. If you see vandalism in progress in one of our city cemeteries, please call 911. To report a past incident, please call the non-emergency number, 977-9041 or Crime Stoppers at 977-4000. Other questions can be directed to me (via the contact form on the blog) or to Officer Weber at the Police Department (970-3280).

Please help monitor and protect these valuable resources.

In the 19th century, urban traffic in Charlottesville required something other than a gas station for fuel. Instead, the equine motors needed water. To satisfy this daily requirement, the city installed four water fountains. The upper portion of the fountain was for two-legged animals, while other domesticates used the overflow from the “fishes” that was collected below in a basin. Unfortunately, none of the fountains survived in situ in the 20th century. But recently the Charlottesville Volunteer Fire Company and the City of Charlottesville restored one of them and erected it near Court Square (seen at the left in the photograph). The fountain dates to 1892, while the design was patented in 1880. The next time you are strolling down the mall, take a short side-trip to view the intricately carved motifs on this historic feature.

A couple years ago I visited an unmarked graveyard off Route 22. Today located on private property, adjacent to a 20th Century house, the fieldstones in the graveyard dated to an earlier period. The un-inscribed stones suggested an informal, family graveyard, most likely used by individuals who could not afford mass-produced markers. With no names or dates, I filed the cemetery away for later research (such as deed and census analysis to try to figure out who owned the land 100+ years ago).

More recently, I saw an intriguing advertisement for a house (MLS 437142) located only half-a-mile from the old graveyard. The description caught my attention: “Albert Johnson was a freed slave who obtained this property from the Meriwether and Randolph families. Construction started in 1882 with the western-most portion (one over one over one with access via rope ladders). The eastern portion was build in 1889.” I turned to UVA architectural historian emeritus, K. Edward Lay, to learn more. He had studied the house as part of his research into historic homes in Albemarle County (see his book for more information: The Architecture of Jefferson County). According to Professor Lay, Albert Johnson was a black carpenter living on land given to Blacks after Civil War. In the 1880 Census, Albert Johnson is listed as age 35 (born in slavery, around 1845), married to Amity Johnson (also 35) and living with their six children and one other boy (possibly a relative, Jesse Spencer, age 17).

Further inquiries with neighbors, Mrs. G. and Sara Lee Barnes, revealed that at some point between the first and second quarter of the 20th century the house was purchased by a white family named Dowell. For much of the 20th Century, Mrs. Dowell and her children lived very simply in the house. Mrs Dowell lived to be over one hundred years old. After her death, her daughter Lyndell stayed in the house for some years. After she was no longer able to take care of herself, the house was sold out of the family.

The kitchen contains logs said to have come from Monticello or possibly Shadwell (Mr Johnson once lived and worked at the former). A modern bathroom was tacked on at the rear of the house sometime in the 20th century (seen in the photo below). The beautiful oaks in the yard were planted by Mr. Johnson. So while the house lacks central heat or air, it retains the beauty of past craftsmanship (only slightly obscured by cheap paneling and carpeting). Ms Barnes commented that this was one of three homes in the immediate vicinity that were originally built by freed slaves for their families. One (or all) of these homes may have used the graveyard located nearby. Located off busy Route 22 in Keswick, this is the house that time forgot. Hopefully it will be bought and restored, rather than torn down.

There has already been a lot of press and events surrounding the current exhibit at the Albemarle Charlottesville Historical Society, but if you haven’t yet had a chance to visit, do so soon. The title of the exhibit is: Marking Time: Voyage to Vietnam. Guest curator Art Beltrone (a military artifact historian and former marine) began collecting graffiti from the Vietnam War in the late 1990s after assisting with the production of Terrence Malick’s film update of The Thin Red Line. During this project he visited the wreck of the General Nelson M Walker and noticed the graffiti that covered parts of the ship. Art, and his wife Lee, began a quest to recover and preserve this informal wartime art (created by veterans) and to collect the stories behind the art. A sample of their 150 canvases is on display at the Albemarle Charlottesville Historical Society through February. Only one of the canvases mentions Charlottesville, but each canvas provides insight into the concerns of soldiers and aspects of their daily life while serving abroad. The exhibit features a cell phone tour that allows you to listen to interviews with veterans. A book and movie also accompany the exhibit. For more information and directions to the Historical Society please visit their website. Or read more about the exhibit from local news media coverage, C-ville or the Daily Progress. The exhibit is sponsored, in part, by the Virginia Foundation for the Humanities.